Warak Dawali (Stuffed Grape Leaves) 

Preparation

1. Step 1

   Bring a kettle of water to a boil. Rinse the rice in a fine-mesh sieve until the water runs almost clear, then soak in cold water for 15 minutes.

2. Step 2

   While the rice soaks, prepare the grape leaves: Drain the leaves, separating them slightly, and set in a heatproof bowl. Pour boiling water over the leaves until fully submerged and let stand for 15 minutes.

3. Step 3

   Drain the soaked rice, then let stand for 15 minutes.

4. Step 4

   Meanwhile, parboil the lamb, short ribs or chuck roast, if using: Place your chosen meat in a pot just big enough to hold the pieces. Add enough cold water to barely cover. Bring to a boil over high, just until you see scum rise to the surface. Remove from the heat, discard the water, rinse the meat and set aside.

5. Step 5

   Make the rice filling: In a large bowl, combine the rice, olive oil, salt, tomato paste, allspice, cinnamon, black pepper and nutmeg; mix well. Add the ground beef and mix until evenly combined; set aside.

6. Step 6

   Drain and rinse the grape leaves thoroughly to remove the brine flavor. Stuff the leaves: Lay out as many of the leaves as will fit on a flat work surface with the vein side up and the stem end closer to you. (Aim for leaves that are about the size of an adult’s palm. If any are exceptionally bigger or smaller than that, set them aside to use for lining the pot later.) Using kitchen shears or a sharp knife, cut out each tough central stem. Place 1 scant tablespoon of the rice filling above the cut-out stem section of each leaf. Using your fingers, spread the filling horizontally into a ¼-inch-thick log that is about 4 inches long, leaving a ½- to 1-inch border on either end. Fold the sides of the grape leaves over the filling, then, working from the end nearest to you, fold each leaf up to cover the filling, rolling away from you. Rolls should be tight enough that they hold but not so tight that there’s no space for the rice to expand. (If rolled too tightly, rolls may burst during cooking.) Repeat with the remaining grape leaves and filling.

7. Step 7

   Assemble the pot: If using lamb, short ribs or chuck roast steak, heat the 3 tablespoons oil in a large Dutch oven or nonstick pot over medium heat. Working in 2 batches if necessary, sear the meat for a couple of minutes on both sides until browned. Remove the pot from the heat and nestle the tomato slices between the meat to fully cover the bottom. If you are not using the meat, drizzle the bottom of the pot with the olive oil and cover it with the tomato slices in an even layer.

8. Step 8

   Creating one layer at a time, place the rolled grape leaves in either concentric circles or rows in the pot.

9. Step 9

   In a large measuring cup, whisk the chicken broth or water with the tomato paste, salt, allspice, cinnamon and pepper to combine; pour the mixture over the grape leaves. Cover it with a layer or two of the extra, unrolled grape leaves and top with an inverted heatproof plate that’s slightly smaller than the pot’s diameter. (This prevents the leaves from moving around when liquid comes to a boil.)

10. Step 10

    Cover the pot and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Allow to boil for about 10 minutes, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 2 hours. After simmering, check the liquid content by tilting the pot to one side. If much more than a very thick trickle of liquid appears, then, using oven mitts or a tea towel to keep the inverted plate and leaves in place, carefully pour that liquid out into a very small pot or measuring cup and reserve (this can be used for reheating leftovers).

11. Step 11

    Remove the plate, slightly lift the edge of the unrolled leaves, pour in the lemon juice and let cook over low heat for another 10 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside to rest for 20 minutes.

12. Step 12

    To serve, discard the unrolled leaves on top. Select a serving dish slightly larger than the pot and invert the dish on top, then quickly — and very carefully — flip the pot and dish over, setting the dish on a surface and lifting the pot to reveal the stuffed grape leaves and meat, if using. (If you find the pot too heavy, then you can also use tongs to transfer the leaves and meat to the serving dish.) If you did not use a nonstick pot, some tomato slices may not release. You can discard them or scrape them out and add them to the platter.

13. Step 13

    Shake the platter gently back and forth to help the stuffed grape leaves come apart, so you can serve individual pieces. Serve generously (at least 10 to 15 per person), with plain yogurt on the side.