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36 Hours

36 Hours in Austin

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“Keep Austin weird” is the decades-old mantra in this capital of live music, colorful characters and, of course, Texas. But Austin, now the country’s 10th-most-populous city, is looking very different: Tesla Cybertrucks are pulling up beside pickups as this college town, home to the University of Texas, just keeps growing. South by Southwest, the signature music festival and conference, starts March 8, but any spring or autumn weekend is an invitation to fall in love with the city. Admire the skyline from a kayak on Lady Bird Lake, treat yourself to barbecue (it’s Texas, after all), and spend an evening carousing Sixth Street until you find your crowd. But whatever you do, for the love of Willie Nelson — one of those colorful Austin characters — start each morning with a breakfast taco.

Recommendations

Key stops
  • Lady Bird Lake is a waterway in the heart of Austin where visitors can enjoy the skyline from a kayak or paddle board.
  • South Congress Avenue abounds with places to shop for cowboy hats, boots and vintage accessories to complete an Austin look.
  • Barton Springs Pool is a spring-fed public swimming pool that stays at around 70 degrees year-round.
Attractions and outdoor activities
Restaurants and bars
  • JuiceLand, a local chain, sells fresh smoothies, juices and açaí bowls.
  • Dai Due is a high-end East Austin restaurant that turns out top-notch New Texan cuisine and specializes in wild game.
  • The White Horse has a dance floor that’s the best place to test your Texas two-step skills.
  • Veracruz All Natural is a female-owned local chain turning out some of Austin’s best breakfast tacos.
  • Bouldin Creek Cafe combines a vegan-friendly menu with neighborhood charm.
  • Jo’s Coffee offers iced coffee, breakfast tacos and live music. The “i love you so much” mural on the cafe’s outside wall attracts even non-coffee drinkers as well.
  • Amy’s Ice Cream, a brand founded in Austin, is known for its Mexican vanilla flavor.
  • Odd Duck is a South Austin restaurant with friendly service that started as a food truck.
  • Donn’s Depot, a groovy dive, offers live country music and a multigenerational dance floor.
  • Ego’s is a late-night karaoke bar inside a parking garage.
  • La Barbecue, a female-owned restaurant in East Austin, serves brisket and pork ribs worth lining up for (although a handy order-ahead option lets you bypass the wait).
Shopping
  • Allens Boots is a longstanding, family-owned store on South Congress Avenue with a vast selection of cowboy footwear.
  • Heritage Boot Co., in South Austin, designs its own high-end cowboy boots.
  • Feathers Vintage sells trendy secondhand fashion, from used coveralls to Valentino sweaters.
  • Maufrais lets people customize their own cowboy hats.
Where to stay
  • The Line’s prime location means that many of its rooms — and its pool — overlook both the Colorado River and the Congress Avenue Bridge. There is also a Veracruz All Natural stand in the lobby, so you can get delicious breakfast tacos without changing out of your slippers. Rooms start at $215.
  • Austin Motel on South Congress Avenue is easy to spot thanks to its iconic, phallic neon sign that reads, “So close yet so far out” — an accurate description of the proximity to downtown and the hip vibe of this redesigned motor lodge with a heated pool and a courtyard perfect for predinner drinks with fellow travelers. Rooms from $203.
  • Heywood Hotel, a restored bungalow in the heart of East Austin, is an understated antidote to the area’s corporate short-term rentals. It has an affable front-desk staff and seven guest rooms, some with balconies and skylights. Rooms from $199.
  • Short-term rentals are everywhere in Austin, especially in the most walkable parts of town, like downtown, around South Congress Avenue and near the University of Texas campus. Or try East Austin for a more eclectic area with both down-home Mexican bakeries and chic designer shops.
Getting around
  • Austin is smaller than Houston or Dallas, but driving or using a ride-hailing app like Uber is still the easiest way to get around. Many of Austin’s highlights — like Zilker Park, South Congress, downtown and East Austin — are within about 20 minutes’ biking distance. You can rent bikes through the city’s bike share program, MetroBike ($12.99 for 24 hours). The public bus system, CapMetro, is also efficient and easy to use ($1.25 a ride).

Itinerary

Friday

People in kayaks paddle on a calm body of water surrounded by banks with trees and bushes growing.
Lady Bird Lake
4 p.m. Kayak on the lake
Austin is blessed with cedar- and oak-dotted hills, an emerald-hued river and incredible sunsets; enjoy the scenery by taking a kayak (or canoe or paddle board) out onto Lady Bird Lake. Also called Town Lake, it’s actually a reservoir on the Colorado River that divides downtown and South Austin — it’s the body of water you see in many postcard photos of Austin. Rent a kayak or a stand-up paddle board ($20 and $25 an hour) from the Rowing Dock in Zilker Park, Austin’s large, central green space, and take in the skyline views from the water. If you need a boost before you head out, swing by JuiceLand near the entrance to Zilker for perfectly balanced smoothies like the Julio Verde with almond milk, spinach, pecan and coconut oil ($7.75).
People in kayaks paddle on a calm body of water surrounded by banks with trees and bushes growing.
Lady Bird Lake
7:30 p.m. Try invasive wild boar and Texas wines
The problem: A multiplying feral hog population has caused serious damage to Texas’ crops. A solution: Serve them up on a platter. This is one way that Jesse Griffiths, the chef and a co-owner of Dai Due on Manor Road, northeast of downtown, is changing how Texans think about local wild game. The small dining room is warmed by the open kitchen’s blazing fire fueled by post oak — the wood Texas grillmasters swear by for its steady high heat and spicy, smoky flavor. Sample bites of chicken-liver mousse, rabbit rillettes and wild-boar sausage in the cold meat board ($27) before moving on to mains like coffee-cured nilgai antelope leg fillet ($64) and an excellent aged Wagyu cheeseburger ($26). The wine list is a who’s who of Texas producers. The restaurant also sells raw cuts and jars of tallow ($12) and hosts butchery classes and hunting outings.
A musician wearing a cowboy hat and playing an acoustic guitar stands on a stage in front of a microphone stand. The stage is illuminated red, has a tinsel background and cut-out hearts strung from above.
9:30 p.m. Boot-scoot at a honky-tonk with whiskey on tap
Ask a local where to get a real Texas honky-tonk experience, and they may point you toward the White Horse, an East Austin institution. The bar hosts two-step dance lessons Thursday to Saturday at 7 p.m., should you want to brush up before the night gets going. By about 10 p.m., the place is packed, the local bands onstage obscured by a sea of Stetson hats. Grab a pour of one of the several whiskeys on tap, then find a spot on the checkerboard dance floor. The bar also has pool tables, a shoeshine station, a photo booth and an outdoor area for air when you work up a sweat. The cover charge varies, but is often about $10.
A musician wearing a cowboy hat and playing an acoustic guitar stands on a stage in front of a microphone stand. The stage is illuminated red, has a tinsel background and cut-out hearts strung from above.
Two people pose for a photo in front of a mural with red, spray-painted text that reads,
The “i love you so much” mural, on the outside wall of Jo’s Coffee, is a popular spot for photos.

Saturday

A person stands in front of a pale-blue-painted truck with painted text that reads
Veracruz All Natural in East Austin
9 a.m. Embrace Austin’s breakfast taco addiction
Breakfast tacos are essential in Austin, and Veracruz All Natural is a top spot for them; the yummy smoothies are a gratifying bonus. The sisters Reyna and Maritza Vazquez opened their first Austin food trailer in 2008, and now there are seven Veracruz locations, including East Austin, South Austin and inside the Line hotel — visit whichever is closest. The meat is consistently tender and well seasoned, and the tortillas are pillowy. Try the popular migas taco, with fluffy eggs and avocado, or the (somewhat) healthier La Reyna, which is loaded with veggies. Pair with fresh juices like the Mr. Verde, a combo of celery, green apple, spinach and more, or smoothies like the Mexico Lindo, with lime juice and cantaloupe, for an ideal, all-in-one morning stop. Most tacos and smoothies cost around $5.
A person stands in front of a pale-blue-painted truck with painted text that reads
Veracruz All Natural in East Austin
10 a.m. Take the plunge with the locals
A simply magic Austin moment is a sunny day at Barton Springs Pool, a natural-spring-fed public pool in Zilker Park. The water temperature hovers around 70 degrees year-round, which means it might be steaming in the winter but feel icy in the summer. The bracing temperature doesn’t diminish its popularity. Families and friends throw out towels and yoga mats on the hilly lawns surrounding the pool — the people-watching is divine (the regulars in Speedos are indeed keeping Austin weird). Nonresident admission, $9, March 9 through Oct. 31; free the rest of the year. After your dip, take a stroll around the rest of Zilker Park, and stop by the Umlauf Sculpture Garden and the Zilker Botanical Garden. The park also hosts the Austin City Limits Music Festival every October.
A close-up view of a salad in a bowl with a pale dressing and cubed tofu. The bowl sits on a red surface.
1 p.m. Forget about meat for a meal
With all the chatter about barbecue, vegans and vegetarians can feel sidelined. Not so at Bouldin Creek Cafe, a South Austin neighborhood favorite. The colorful woman-owned restaurant has been a mainstay of the city’s hippie community for decades thanks to a winning combo: reasonable prices (even with a 20 percent “fair wage surcharge” for the staff that is added to all checks; tips are appreciated but not expected), locally sourced ingredients, gluten-free options, a dog-friendly patio and good coffee. Try the grilled blueberry cornbread ($5.50) or vegan kolaches ($5.25), a modern twist on the filled pastries that are traditional road trip snacks in the surrounding Czech-influenced region. Lunch options include a veggie burger with chipotle-pecan pesto ($12). The cafe’s interior may look different each visit: The local art rotates monthly.
A close-up view of a salad in a bowl with a pale dressing and cubed tofu. The bowl sits on a red surface.
A store with shelves displaying rows of many cowboy boots, each pair with a different color or pattern.
Allens Boots
3 p.m. Shop for your country look
The South Congress shopping district, just south of the Colorado River, once featured mostly funky, locally owned businesses, but chains have moved in. It’s still a great place to get Austinified. Start by cowboy-boot shopping for high-end brands at the family-owned Allens Boots (pairs start at $150) or vintage-inspired designs at Heritage Boot Co. (from $600). Peruse Feathers Vintage for lightly used prom dresses and hard-to-find (and priced as such) baseball tees ($188). Top off your look by customizing your own cowboy hat at Maufrais with leather hat bands and stick pins (hats from $140). Stop at Jo’s Coffee for a spicy cocoa in winter or a cold brew in summer (both $4) and to snap a photo of the simple yet charming “i love you so much” mural on the outside wall, a classic Austin postcard shot that appears on coasters, shirts and magnets at souvenir stores.
A store with shelves displaying rows of many cowboy boots, each pair with a different color or pattern.
Allens Boots
A person wearing glasses and a red beanie stands inside a shop, facing out of a service window onto the street. They are holding a cup of ice cream with a spoon in it.
Amy’s Ice Cream on South Congress Avenue
6 p.m. Grab a scoop and see the bats take flight
Drop by the South Congress location of the Austin-founded Amy’s Ice Cream to taste the classic Mexican vanilla, or a nondairy option made from oat milk (around $6 for a small scoop). Then walk over to see the source of one of Austin’s nicknames — Bat City — at the Congress Avenue Bridge. Between late March and early fall, an estimated 1.5 million Mexican free-tailed bats make their home beneath the bridge, and at dusk they emerge to feed on insects, zipping by at speeds thought to be as fast as 100 miles per hour. Crowds gather along the bridge for the show during the prime months. Check the bats’ schedule at austinbatrefuge.org.
A person wearing glasses and a red beanie stands inside a shop, facing out of a service window onto the street. They are holding a cup of ice cream with a spoon in it.
Amy’s Ice Cream on South Congress Avenue
8:30 p.m. Watch the chefs whip up your dinner
Odd Duck on South Lamar Boulevard is the classic Austin success story: a business that started as a food truck and became popular enough to go brick-and-mortar. In a greenhouse-like building perched on the side of a little hill, the restaurant serves meat as good as anywhere in town, like the hearty yet delicate pecan mole pork shoulder ($33), alongside vegetarian dishes like grilled broccoli with a deviled egg sauce ($15). Desserts often come with an inventive ice cream flavor, like sourdough batter or lavender and pink peppercorn, and the service is delightfully friendly: Reserve a spot at the bar overlooking the kitchen and you might score a spoonful of this or a morsel of that from the chefs plating dishes in front of you.
10 p.m. Carouse with the crowds on Sixth Street
Pick your own adventure on Sixth Street, the two-or-so-mile stretch of nightspots. East Sixth has the trendier bars and restaurants among bungalows in a gentrified, historically Black and Latino neighborhood. The street’s center, nicknamed “dirty Sixth,” is the debaucherous belly of the beast with bachelorette-party-riddled bars and wild clubs, some housed in Victorian-era buildings. Farther down is West Sixth, which attracts a preppier and older crowd to brewpubs and cafes. Bounce where the mood suits you (easy to do by hailing one of the pedicabs), although a classic Austin evening bookend is Donn’s Depot, a former train depot turned piano bar with Christmas lights and ruby-red carpeting, just south on West Fifth Street. This dive bar transports you to an older Austin, luring folks of all ages onto a lively country dance floor.
Two people perform on a stage with microphones. A sign behind the performers reads
11:30 p.m. Belt out karaoke in a parking garage
For a final evening scene (until 2 a.m. at least) try Ego’s, a South Congress karaoke den. You wouldn’t guess from the outside what’s going on inside: The Austin classic is in the back of a parking garage beneath a nondescript office building. But the sneaky location adds to the appeal. On weekend nights it can be shoulder to shoulder, but a bouncer keeps sloppy drunk and belligerent people out, so the vibe remains friendly. The crowd is supportive of those who give it their all at the microphone — just be sure to get your song request in quickly, as the list can get lengthy. There’s no cover charge, and drinks are affordable (local beers, around $5).
Two people perform on a stage with microphones. A sign behind the performers reads
An outdoor area of a bar with string lights. People stand or sit on colorful red or blue chairs. A sign above reads
The White Horse has an outdoor area where you can cool off when the dance floor gets packed.

Sunday

Three people wearing stand at a lookout area and view mountains in the distance during an overcast day.
9 a.m. Climb for a panoramic view
Austin sits at the edge of Texas Hill Country, a rolling, craggy region that includes Mount Bonnell, one of the highest points in Austin at 775 feet above sea level. Drive up to the base and find ample free parking before hiking about 10 minutes up the stone stairs to the top. The short, rigorous and free climb rewards visitors with views of the skyline, the curving Colorado River, the backyards of riverside mansions and the hills along the horizon. It’s a brief outing that gets the thighs burning, and a nice way to breathe the fresh air and contextualize Austin’s place in the central Texas landscape.
Three people wearing stand at a lookout area and view mountains in the distance during an overcast day.
The exterior of a building with a rounded dome and a giant sculpture of a star on the forecourt.
The Bullock Texas State History Museum
10 a.m. Learn the story of the Lone Star State
The Bullock Texas State History Museum, a few blocks from the massive Texas Capitol, guides visitors through the vast scale and scope of Texas’ past across three floors of exhibitions. Learn about the region’s early inhabitants like the Caddos, then explore the Republic of Texas’ 1836 independence from Mexico, statehood, and the gushers of the 1901 oil boom — all the way to quirky, more modern exhibitions, like one on lowrider car culture starting in May. Don’t miss the 16-minute movie “The Star of Destiny,” an educational and multisensory experience with blowing air and rattling chairs — a treat for kids ($6 adults, $5 children). As a bonus, the Bullock Museum is free on the first Sunday of every month (admission $13 adults, $9 children).
The exterior of a building with a rounded dome and a giant sculpture of a star on the forecourt.
The Bullock Texas State History Museum
12 p.m. Submit to the power of Texas barbecue
La Barbecue, whose founders have been some of the few women to break into the upper ranks of Texas barbecue, is a locals’ favorite in East Austin for a weekend meat fix. You can’t go wrong with fatty brisket ($34 a pound), tender pork ribs ($30 a pound), and sides like chipotle slaw ($4), spicy garlic pickles ($2) and a dynamite shells and cheese ($5.50). Skip the line (which can be up to an hour’s wait, since the inside seating area is tiny) by ordering on the website a day ahead, and then walk 10 minutes to the Ann and Roy Butler Hike-and-Bike Trail to enjoy your lunch. Brisket on the banks of the Colorado River — what’s more Austin than that?