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    First look inside the new home of cult restaurant Saint Peter

    From sea charcuterie to fish-fat soap, acclaimed chef Josh Niland is about to open the doors on his new venture. “We’ve held out for this, and now we have it.”

    Jill DupleixFood writer
    Updated

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    If you were to write a timeline of fish cookery in Australia, you might begin with First Nations people wrapping barramundi in paperbark and cooking it in hot coals. After that, there would be an extremely long gap.

    You would note the indiscriminate boiling of oysters by early colonists, and mark the birth of multiculturalism with the first Greek fish and chip shop in Sydney in 1879. You’d find a place for the launch of Birds Eye Fish Fingers in 1956, following the advent of the home freezer.

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    Jill Dupleix
    Jill DupleixFood writerJill Dupleix is AFR Magazine's culinary editor.

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